冰川行走 —— 绳队上升（结组）
Glacier travel 101 -- roping up
By Andy Tyson and Mike Clelland

Glacier-travel skills form the backbone of a mountaineer''s safety net -- whether you''re roping up for the Emmons Glacier on Rainier or the Khumbu Icefall on Everest, you must be prepared to rescue yourself and your partners from crevasse falls. While every experienced glacier traveler has his own personalized system, here are the basic first steps for tying in properly on a three-person rope team. Brief crevasse-rescue lessons will follow in subsequent Tech Tips.

冰川行走技巧是登山者安全体系的主要内容 —— 无论你是在 RAINIER 峰的 EMMONS 冰川结组行走，还是在攀登珠峰的贡布冰川，你必须时刻准备在坠入冰裂缝中救出自己和你的同伴。每个冰川行走者都有自己独特的方式，这里阐述的是如何正确的将一个三人绳队连接在一起的基本步骤。简单的冰裂缝救援在随后的 Tech Tips 中。

Figure 1. The basic tie-in system for climbers on either end of the rope.
步骤 1 ：绳子两端攀登者的基本连接系统

illustrates a simple tie-in system. Clip into the rope using a locking biner rather than tying in directly so you can escape the system quickly during rescue scenarios. Next, connect a waist prusik and a foot prusik (used to extract yourself or a partner from a crevasse) onto the rope using a prusik hitch and clip these with a separate locking biner to your harness. To make the waist prusik, use a 5- to 7-foot length of 6mm perlon cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman knot. To make the foot prusik, take a 12-foot length of cord (preferably in a second color) and tie it as shown in figure 2.

现在对基本的连接进行图解。将结组绳扣入安全带上的主锁（译者注：带安全锁的铁锁），而不是直接系在安全带上，因为这样的话你可以在之后的救援中，迅速地从连接系统中解脱出来。接着，在结组绳上打上 “ 胸式 ” 、 “ 脚式 ” 两个普鲁士结（译者注：指长度到胸部位置和到脚部位置）（用于在冰裂缝中自救或救出同伴），把它们扣入安全带上的另一个独立主锁。

要制作一个胸式普鲁士结，选择 5-7 英尺长的 6 毫米辅绳，用双渔人结做成绳套；制作脚式普鲁士结，用一跟 12 英尺长的辅绳（最好是另一种颜色），然后象步骤 2 所示那样连接起来。

Figure 2. Tying the foot prusik.
步骤 2 ：编脚式普鲁士结

Stuff this foot loop out of the way in a pocket or under your harness. Make sure to slide the prusiks in toward your harness so the climbing rope takes the load of a fall, not the prusiks.

将脚式普鲁士结的脚环塞到口袋里或者夹到安全带的下面。确定将普鲁士结推到靠近安全带位置，这样在坠落的时候结组绳受力，而不是普鲁士结。

If you''re carrying a big pack, you''ll need a simple chest harness to prevent the pack from flipping you upside down during a fall. You can make your own using an 8-foot loop of webbing crossed over your shoulders and clipped in front with a non-locking biner (figures 3 and 4).

如果你背着一个大背包，你还需要一个简单的胸式安全带，防止在坠落的时候，背包的重量导致你头部朝下。你可以使用一个 8 英尺长的扁带环穿过双肩，然后在胸前用一个普通铁锁扣上。（步骤 3 和步骤 4 ）。

Next, clip your pack''s haul loop securely to the main rope, as some crevasse-rescue situations require "dropping" your pack. Figures 3and 4show the end and middle climbers rigged for travel on a three-person rope team. The climbers on either end of the team can use the rope itself to attach their packs, while the middle person will need a long runner clipped from the haul loop to the rope.

再接着，将你的背包吊环安全地扣入主绳（译者注：指结组绳），在有些冰裂缝救援中要求 “ 扔下 ” 你的背包。步骤 3 和步骤 4 表明在三人绳队中，第二和第三人是怎样操作的。处于头尾位置的攀登者可以直接用结组绳末端系在他们的背包上，中间的攀登者需要用扁带环连接背包吊环和绳子。

Try out your prusik system at home to make sure it works smoothly -- you may need to use it to climb out of a cramped crevasse. Mechanical ascenders can be handy for ascending fixed lines on big peaks, but are not a suitable alternative to prusiks as shown here because their sharp teeth could damage a rope during a big fall.

在家里试验你的普鲁士结，确保它可以顺畅地工作 —— 你可能要用它来爬出狭窄的冰裂缝。机械上升器用于手持上升修有路绳的陡壁，但不适合代替这里所示的普鲁士结。因为上升器锋利的尖齿在坠落的时候会损坏绳子。

Excerpted from The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, available at www.climbing.com.